Video of Spoon Type-R Civic - 245 bhp @ 10,000+ rpm

This is modified K20 engine with a blend of 2000 and Type-R best of best mixed. Impressive build out of a small 2 liter engine.

Article and Video detailing the basics of variable valve timing as in the case of the K20Z3 engine

Explanation of variable valve timing that I thought was very interesting.

Looking at times again... might have been wrong about the best run

Although Reaction time does not impact your ET, it does impact who the winner is... rt + et

Reaction Time .3798
60 ft 2.2681
330 ft 6.2762
ET @ 594 ft 8.8903
ET 1/8th mile 9.4710
1/8 MPH 77.49

RT + ET = 9.867


Reaction Time .1028
60 ft 2.2952
330 ft 6.3292
ET @ 594 ft 8.9680
ET 1/8th mile 9.5522
1/8 MPH 77.03

RT + ET = 9.655


Means that the latter was true best of the night even though the ET was slower.

YouTube videos finally uploaded... nine in total

Well finally got them all uploaded. This pass was probably the overall best of the night :

HIZTOY lining up at Ohio Valley for first run...

While I was out at the track, probably my first  run given how much daylight is in the pic... someone took a pic and posted it on local website (http://www.502streetscene.net).

Its not a pic that I figured I would ever see... Mikey likes it!

07-OCT-2009 :: Ohio Valley Dragway, Kentucky

First let me say, Brandon... I will get videos uploaded be patient... that said, I went to the track today and had some of my best times and learned a few things. My best overall run was

Reaction Time .3798
60 ft 2.2681
330 ft 6.2762
ET @ 594 ft 8.8903
ET 1/8th mile 9.4710
1/8 MPH 77.49

My best reaction time was .1028 compared to my typical .50 and greater. So I was pleased to see that run as well.

Reaction Time .1028
60 ft 2.2952
330 ft 6.3292
ET @ 594 ft 8.9680
ET 1/8th mile 9.5522
1/8 MPH 77.03

My top speed for the night was 77.69 mph

Reaction Time .3898
60 ft 2.2783
330 ft 6.2802
ET @ 594 ft 8.8980
ET 1/8th mile 9.4772
1/8 MPH 77.69

My average overall reaction time was 0.305 . So what changed for me... I had been looking at previous videos that I took during past runs. I was not anticipating the green light correctly. I had one run where I choked and jump the light and fouled with a -0.0519. Grrrr. So the videos really have helped.

Another thing that has troubled me in the past is that stupid VSA on the newer cars including mine. I have always turned it off in earlier runs since it can get a little annoyed at tires spinning at the launch. So this time I had it off as well. I had a hard time getting my tires to hook tonite. I figured it was because it was cold, like 55 degrees (F), and there was the wait time between runs.

Tires simply were not warming up. So I figured I would experiment... test and tune night you know. I normally don't warm up the tires by doing a burnout. Street tires don't appear to gain much from burnouts, so I am told. Since the tires are cold, why not warm them up with the VSA off so that I can get a good burnout. Then for the run turn the VSA back on to reduce the wheel spin at the launch. As soon as did this I went from my first ET's of 10.11, 9.83, and 9.93 down to a nice 9.59. To eliminate the possibility of a fluke, I repeated that same method for the remaining runs. The rest of the evening my ET was 9.47 for 5 consecutive runs. One of those was even in a different lane. So I am convinced that it works... at least in cold weather. Wonder how it will perform for warm weather... we will have to see.

I am planning on purchasing a pair of lightweight rims and BFG T/A Drag Radials or Mickey Thompson Drag Radials in the spring of next year. These should really help with lowering my 60ft as well as my overall ET.

Took a number of videos tonite which I need to create media files for and then upload to youtube. You can find all of my published videos by searching for the user bsc7080yec. Once I get them built I will post same on youtube, with my best run viewable here.

One run you won't see however, nor posted time is my last time... I missed my shift entirely and could not get back into gear. Sad way to end the night, but I will try and forget that it happened. I really was excited to see improvements in my launch and the ET. Granted some is due to the cold air, and some maybe due to the velocity stack modification forcing more cold air into the intake.

For more timeslip history and modifications you can check here :

History of Timeslips

Smoothing out some rough spots...

Brandon, friend of mine, wanted a vid of my Si doing a burnout. Well my attempt was kinda wimpy... so much to his disappointment (and I know he hated doing it )... given it a go.  Here are the results... not too shaby.

Clean shot

DSCF8059
Originally uploaded by bsc7080

My personal photographer for the day, youngest of my sons, took this photo of my engine. Clean engine... clean shot.

Velocity Stack installed

Finally got around to upgrading my straight pipe on my intake to a velocity stack as well as moving it more in line with the lower grille opening. Link below is to the full before and after set.

FullSet Link

Tried to get the stack further over, but not a whole lot of room to work with. Its probably not as effective as if I were to bore a hole through the bumper... but I will pass on that. Its better than what it was and better than the inlet being inside the engine bay in my opinion. Always thought it was odd that Honda had the inlet all the way up in the engine bay. Has to get toasty in there compared to the cold air coming from down towards the bottom.

The Civic, like so many other cars has a high pressure area right at the lower bumper as well as the cowl at the base of the front windshield. Both areas are prime locations for cold air inlets. Next year I hope to work on a complimenting cowl induction setup to go with the lower intake.

I will need to get back to the dyno and see what differences this makes if any.

I already have a dyno which shows the difference of when I went from stock setup to the icebox configuration.

I reference the dyno not so much as indicator of how much power the modifications are producing, but more so what the comparative difference is as mods are actually added to the vehicle. So what the true peak power is... I don't know really and its not really that important to me in the end. I just like to know what I am adding is making some difference or not.


BEFORE

DURING

AFTER

Working on my intake inlet at bumper

I have been debating how to improve the air flow on my icebox intake. I found an old oval airbox from a truck that I considered using as a fiberglass mold so that I could make something that would curve into the bumper. As nice as it sounded, I thought afterwards that it would be overkill most likely.

So I was skimming google and flickr for information on ideas, when I stumbled on info about velocity stacks for intakes. I had seen them before used in a manner of ways. So that led me to rethinking how I could leverage that approach.

If I replace all of the hose from the airbox down to the velocity stack, and mount the stack right behind the driver side of the lower bumper... where the mesh grille is at... I should be able to fully take advantage of that high pressure zone there as well as leverage the benefits of the air flow improvement by use of the velocity stack.

I will get some minor air disturbance from the grille mesh itself, but I think considerably less than what I am getting now with a straight pipe that is sitting off to the side of the grille. I mean it works now, and I am getting something from the setup, but it can be better.

Once I get things reconfigured, I need to take it back to AutoLab and have another dyno run on it.