Project Azulete (Blue)

Woot! Woot! 100k and still moving!

2011-04-16T19:45:00.001-04:00

Bought my Si with 33k on it and since then I have put some serious miles on it. I definitely put it through its paces this past year with my involvement with Autocross racing. Have to say, its been the most fun I have had while driving this car. Looking forward to many more miles in the future.

Happy 100,000 miles birthday!

2011APR16_100kMiles.mp4 Watch on Posterous

Wheels, Tires, and Autocross Season.. Oh My!

2011-03-20T12:14:00.001-04:00

All set for the 2011 AutoX season. Separate track wheels and daily stock setup, plus the motorcycle... should make for a some longer lasting rubber. Tires are BF Goodrich KDW 225/45-17's. Not as sticky as some, but right now with my experience, its unlikely that tires are going to make me a better driver on the course. I just like the aggressive look. Humble enough to admit that I still have a lot to learn. Wheels are out of Austrailia, ROH Adrenalin 17x8 +41. I also picked up a set of camber bolts for up front. My car isn't lowered at this point, so my front camber is only set to -0.9 right now. Everything else is within factory specs. I might look into getting springs and swaybars next year, and get rear camber arms to go with that as well. Maybe after that I might upgrade to 245's, just have to see since that is a few years down the road and assumes I will still be racing. LOL. Who am I fooling!

Also taking the new setup for a small adventure on the 26th of March @ the Leprechaun Run 5 road rally race.

"Rally info: The rally route will be approximately 80 miles long and will take 2-3 hours to complete. After check in, you will be given detailed route instructions and maps that you will use to navigate the course on your own. The drive will be a fun back roads loop heading down to Falmouth, KY and back to our gathering at Molly Malone's Irish Pub in Covington, KY. There will be many opportunities to stop and take a break along the route, but most will probably choose to take a break at the McDonald's in Falmouth at the halfway point."

See the full gallery on Posterous

Second test

2010-12-19T19:06:00.001-05:00

Second test of android app.

Another test

2010-12-19T19:02:00.001-05:00

Just testing Posterous android app

Test Post

2010-11-05T06:19:00.005-04:00

Trying out this new site http://www.posterous.com where I can post things via email and goes to the blog. If this works right, it should post something to :

http://projectblue.posterous.com

but also

Shopping list updated...

2010-10-24T13:52:00.001-04:00

After doing some more research its looking more like this now :

2011 AutoX Season

Skip getting the extra track rims, and go with a camber adjustments, swaybar, new set of KDWs, and if at all possible.. flashpro... and also removal of the Throttle Body Spacer so I can get into the STX class. With the transmission work, thats a almost a 1k of money that was not expected to go that direction. After much reflection, and balancing out other responsibilities... this seems to be the smarter route and would still allow me to race next season.

Why... well 16x8's are going to be hard to find wide tires that fit properly on the Si for one as I have found out. Getting more negative camber in combination with regular rotations and flipping of the tires, should increase the life of the tires dramatically. Less cauliflower rounding of which I experienced this year... as well as more even wear across the tire as a whole.

click here :: Skunk2 Rear Camber Kit - adjustable ($300 from Corsport)

click here :: SPC Camber Bolts (2 pair) ($39 from Corsport)

click here :: Progress Rear Swaybar ($159 from Corsport)

click here :: B.F. Goodrich KDWs 245/40R17 (About $560 thereabouts depending on where you shop)

note : Discount Tire Direct usually has good package discounts when buying 4 tires

... not a must have, but would be nice and would make a big difference in how the car performs :

click here :: Flash Pro ECU Management ($689 from Corsport)

AND.... learn to drive better. ;o)

My shopping list for the next few years...

2010-10-23T13:37:00.001-04:00

click here :: Hybrid Racing shifter bushings
click here :: Flash Pro ECU Management
click here :: Skunk2 Rear Camber Kit
click here :: Corsport Camber Bolts (2 pair)
click here :: Progress Rear Swaybar

Track wheels
-------------

click here :: 16x8 5x114.3 wheels (autox)

click here :: 225/50/16 Hankook Ventus RS-S3

click here :: 225/50/16 Falken Azenis RT-615K

New daily's too KDWs. Click here 225/45/17

Final Results posted for KYSCCA Event #8

2010-09-18T00:04:00.000-04:00

Results of the last season race event have been posted.

Click here to view final results

As promised... the video from the last season event...

2010-09-06T17:08:00.002-04:00

Finished putting the video together and posted to YouTube. It is a 3-in-1 deal with the first being definitely what not to do.. but what happens to everyone sooner or later. The last two videos are a right side / left side perspective. The very last run being the shot from the left side with a final time of 51.113.

P.S. Note to Scott...the only reason you beat my time was because the course was designed for older and low powered cars like your RSX, and I do have more horsepower than you. ;o) . Looking forward to running against you next season thats for certain.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdQk1WICtb8

Fotos from the event at UPS

2010-09-06T11:10:00.005-04:00

Had a few problems getting the pics posted from yesterday... but here they are ...

The day starts out a lot like this... well maybe not starts since I don't get there at 6am to setup the course. Everyone here is playing their part by chalking the course to mark where the cones are located at.

Nice wide angle shot at UPS before the grid fills up... yep thats me in the blue civic on the right.

And now the grid is filling getting ready for the first heat... and yes thats a pickup truck, so don't think you can't race what you have ;o) .

So here comes the funny (and yes a video will soon follow that matches this crazy path). I am using software called Trackmaster on my droid. My wife can probably detail her personal accounts of this as well. As I said, on the first run I got lost. This is what lost looks like... that snake mess down at the bottom of the path.

And this is what it was supposed to be like (diregard the time and speed, that comes from the playback feature of Trackmaster). The course started out with a quick right hand turn into a slalom which was a first for me this year. From there it was a sharp and crisp turn to the right to a wideopen section where the first lap you went left and the second you went right. Going on the first lap and turn left, it had you going up hill and then right down hill into a right hand sweeper. Thats where I sent wrong the first time and went left of the light pole instead of right. Ooops! So from that point on, going on the right hand side of the pole, the course took you back to that wideopen straight away and into the second half of the course. The course went into a right hand turn and into the final right hand sweeper to the finish line. My best time of the day was 51.113.

The trackmaster software also records G-Forces experienced by the ride using the android phone's (Samsung Captivate) accelerometer. Here are screenshots of what it recorded from two separate runs.

Cooling down after a run on the course...

From here you can just barely see the white CMOD on the course...

All in all, it was great day.

Last point event for KYSCCA, Sept 5th

2010-09-05T17:56:00.002-04:00

The season is at an end for autocross this year. Only two more events, but those will be fun runs.

This was a very interesting course this time around. In honor of my first run at UPS when this season started... where I got lost for the first time, I thought it would be nice to get lost again. Good grief. I went left when I should have gone right. I was not alone. That corner fooled a few people. I finished the day out with a time of 51.113 and 5th place in the STO class.

My friend Scott beat my time with a 49 something and picked up 3rd place. Needless to say he felt compelled to rub it in. :)

Melody, my wife, joined me as support and co-pilot. She says to me as I post this, "I do enjoy this much better than I would have expected". Makes me happy to hear that. That said, still hoping she decides to try one of the fun runs to see if she can get bitten by the autox bug.

Took a few pics today as well captured some trackmaster timings. The trackmaster pic shows what it looks like when you get lost vs not getting lost.

I will post some videos as well once i get a look at it.

Just a test of using Blogway from my phone

2010-09-04T20:58:00.001-04:00

Found an app for my captivate that will allow me to post remotely

KYSCCA #6 - PJCS

2010-08-01T06:55:00.003-04:00

*** UPDATE ***

Results posted from Event #6

Sound Results (92 dB is max permissiable for PJCS area) : 86 dB

Final Results by Class : 10th out of 14 in the STO class

******************************************************************************

On July 31st, went to the KYSCCA Event #6 held at Papa John's Cardinal Stadium, Louisville, KY. Weather forecast did not look promising with 40% scattered thunderstorms. The morning started out wet to boot, but by the time we were ready to run the rain had all passed and the sun was on its way in to warm things up.

I am getting better at visualizing the course in my head, now if I could just take that visual course in my ahead and do better at driving it I would be set. Some people pick it up faster than others. I appear to be just your average every day ol' person. So it will take me a bit, but I am learning. No question about that.

For some reason today, the lane change kept me feeling uneasy every time I entered it. Not certain why. It was like it was a surprise when I came upon me timing was. Luckily I didn't kill any cones in that area. In fact out of all six of the runs, I only killed one cone and that was at the end of the course on my 5th run. Came out of that last turn too quick and lost control of the rear a bit, and my passenger rear tire took it out. Felt that and said to my wife Melody, who was riding with me, "Ooops". All that said, there were lots of times on the earlier runs that I was certain I must have hit some cones. After looking at the resulting video, I came awful close to tagging them, but did not.

One thing is certain, the BF Goodrich tires I have are great tires for how I use them : Drive back and forth to work 300 miles a week + Autocross and with a dash of Drag Racing. It serves a fair and decent balance. Are they great for Autocross exclusively ? Probably not, just like they are not great exclusively for Drag Racing exclusively. With this being my first year of Autocross, I didn't want to dump a bunch of money into separate track wheels and tires until I knew this was the sport for me. Well it is, and so I need to look towards getting a new setup for the track for the 2011 season. The treadwear on the KDWs is 300 and what I need is something more along the lines of 140-180, knowing that for back and forth to work they would never survive hence just for track. Probably a 225 (or 235 depends upon whats legal for the class) and wrap that around a 17x8 or 18x8. If I can put a 235 on it, I would like to, but I need to make sure that it fits of course.

Well enough with all that, here is some video footage using the Epic Cam HD that I use. If you have the bandwidth, check it out in HD. Sometimes what I do is get the HD playback going, then press pause and let it load up, then press play to watch it. Interesting note, and maybe its just me, but watching the video this time it "feels fast".

P.S. "Feels fast" is a pun on "You sound fast" comment I heard recently. Made me smile inside the thought of "sounding" fast. Not even sure how thats done. LOL.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wp1d2K1yPmw

Sea of Cones : A Documentary About Autocross

2010-07-09T10:38:00.004-04:00

When people find out that I race my car, they think of something like NASCAR or other track type of racing. When I mention Autocross it is often followed by confusion or misconception. Trying to explain a parking lot full of cones and driving your car around them, does not do it justice. You really have to see it to appreciate it I thought.

Well, I found this nice video someone put together for their cinematography class project. It does an excellent job of describing the sport, who participates, what age groups, what type of cars, some basic rules, and quality footage of the events.

Enjoy... and if you like what you see, check out www.scca.com for more information on SOLO racing.

Sea of Cones : A Documentary About Autocross from Stephen Chiang on Vimeo.

( http://vimeo.com/12067348 )

Finally as an excellent follow up to the documentary, here is online tutorial that walks you through the basics :

http://www.wtfstables.com/rmsoloschool/

KYSCCA #5 - 12JUN2010

2010-06-15T00:35:00.003-04:00

Had a fantastic time this past weekend. I put together a rather crude drawing (using MS Paint) of how the course was laid out. There was a sweet loop at the beginning. Hoping that they will have that element in future track layouts.

Out of 49 cars, I placed 39th in the RAW results. Raw Results click here

Melody was there cheering me on and shooting video. Not long after she got there she hooked up with Jason, one of the racers running a blue RSX, and rode shotgun. I was running second heat, so I had to work the first heat. Kind of worked out too, because it was fairly wet when we arrived. By the time the second heat came around, things were drying up fairly well.

Was running front tires at 50 psi and rears at 40. The KDWs are known to have soft walls and apparently do better with higher pressures when under this type of stress. The rears were simply too high though. I will probably experiment next time and try 45/35 and see how it handles.

Here is a compiled video which is a combination between video Melody shot, and the HD cam i mounted on the on the vehicle. Came out pretty cool I thought. Enjoy.

Note : In case you don't have access to YouTube, try this one here.

Saturday, June 12th.. KYSCCA 2010 Event # 5

2010-06-07T21:26:00.004-04:00

Click here for details

Saturday brings another race day out at Papa John's Cardinal Stadium. This time my camera will be ready. This time, my wife has her own helmet.

It's a Bell Sprint Mako, same as mine but in pink instead of blue. How cute eh ? I like it though. Hopefully she will take the opportunity to ride with a few other individuals out there this Saturday.

Only one thing getting in the way right now potentially... the weather. Supposed to be scattered thunderstorms. They have been known to have races in the rain, however storms generally shuts it down. Have to see how it plays out.

I had problems last week with the camera due to some fogging on the lens. I made the mistake of having it out in the humid air and bringing it into a cool house afterwards. So I purchased some silica gel (for drying flowers) for about 5 bucks for a tub of the stuff. Filled a jar half full and placed the camera into the jar. Sealed it and tucked into a freezer bag.

I let it set in the back of cupboard for a whole week. When I took it out, there was indeed some silica gel encrusted on the buttons where there obviously was some water as well. After brushing things off and getting all of the excess silica gel off of the camera, I tested it out. No moisture and all appeared to work.

So good right ? Well I also ordered some Zorb-It. A 4x4 packet good for 2 cubit feet of air space. This is supposed to be very good stuff. I placed it into my camera bag along with the car camera as well. This will keep it moisture free after being outside on the car all day. Even when bringing back inside the house. Looking forward to getting some better video shots than white blur. ;o)

I concentrated on being smooth the last time and I felt better about the run. This time, I need to work out some corner issues when coming out of the slalom. This is assuming that they have the same corner they have had for the last 3 races. It could of course be all brand new. Guess we will see.

In any case, if you have some free time and you are in the Louisville, KY area.. swing on by around 10 or 11am on Saturday the 12th of June. You might just enjoy yourself!

Click here for details

KYSCCA #4

2010-05-31T00:39:00.000-04:00

Had a great time at the track on Saturday. It was a pretty hot day for being out on the asphalt parking lot. The course had an (well at least I thought so) exceptional number of twists and turns in it. Right at turn #1 there was a nasty pit of wet gravel that I guess they couldn't get cleaned up. Felt myself losing traction a bit each time I went through there. Other than that the only other odd portion of the course was midway where it went into a long sweeping turn which narrowed down and almost moved into a 90 degree right hand turn (slightly more actually). Pretty sharp back turn. It had a few boxes and two slaloms. The last slalom was right at the end, so of course it wasn't much of a slalom.

My wife, Melody, was there and after riding with me a few times finished her day out filming a few videos.

The camcorder started acting up, so we didn't get much. To make matters worse, the on-car video wasn't working properly either. Hoping that next time all of the techical issues will be resolved.

All that said, its time to go shopping for a helmet for Melody.

P.S. She has been shopping for race cars now... Miata in her future maybe ?

KYSCCA #3 - PJCS - Feel good day!

2010-05-16T15:11:00.007-04:00

Agreeably I didn't bring home any top spots, but I felt much better about the driving this event. The solid mounts have really made a big difference that is for certain. Had my co-driver, Brandon Howard, with me as well. He did very well. Crazy man in the turns is all I can say!

Seat was real tight too. Did the 'twist the belt' a few times and reconnect. However, I have a side lever that boost the seat up... very tight. We didn't feel like we were flailing around, nor did we have to brace as much. Still need to look at getting harness setup.

Picked up a few videos and posted online. Like a dufus, I left the recording on early in the day and ate up about an hours worth, so we only got a few runs captured on video...and not our fastest sprints either. So I only posted the last 2 videos that I had. Lot of wind in the mic, I will need to fix that for next time with a bit of foam and tape. Also need to see how I can rig it so that the camera is outside the car on the camera boom. It would make for a much better capture than inside the car.

One vehicle casualty occurred though. Not sure if anyone caught it on film as of yet. A red Miata left the course on the last turn before the finish gate, left the course, hit the curb and disappeared into the culvert. Fortunately there were no injuries to the driver, nor fuel fires. The front end of the Miata, well needless to say was ready for the scrapyard I am sure. It was almost surreal seeing him go over the edge. I think he did the right thing though by keeping it straight. I suspect that if he would have tried to turn out of it, he may instead ended up flipping it when he hit the curb side. That would been much nastier to be certain. My family and Brandon's girlfriend missed the whole event... they were getting some ice cream. LOL.

Lessons learned...

1. Oddly enough, need to slow down and concentrate on the smoothness. Too much fighting in the turns is bogging my time down most certainly.
2. Need to find the straight lines.
3. Need to edge closer to the key cones.
4. Need to get the driver/passenger mounts fixed.

... I am sure there are others however. One good note, I was braking before the turns and not as I entered into the turn.

Here is me...

Here is Brandon...

Here is a video I put together with our 4th pass. You can see where I do pretty well at first and have a decent lead on Brandon. Its that long sweeping turn that winds and snakes to the end that ends up being my demise. Again, Brandon had a great day and once again bested my time by a larger margin this time. The times are not posted yet, but I will come back and edit think blog entry once I get that information.

Reinstalling solid mounts

2010-05-15T23:21:00.000-04:00

A few pics of when we were installing the motor mounts after the curing process. These were taken by (except for the pic of the mounts themselves) my 10 year old step-son, Shaun B. The other set of legs under the car is Brandon Howard, friend of mine that works at VIOC in Shelbyville, KY.

Going solid mounts (torque rods)

2010-05-07T22:36:00.001-04:00

Worn out from last night and today's fun. Started working on the front brakes last night. Stupid rotors were a pain in the a$$ to get off. I will take the rotors in beginning of next week to get them turned. Still need to work on the rear setup before the week is out.

Removed the front and lower torque rods. The rotors were a piece of cake compared to these things. Could not get enough leverage to break the bolts loose, while guarding myself from pushing it so much that I might knock the car from the jack stands. Finally, they gave way. Needless to say I survived and the mounts came off. I started with the front one, then removed the Ingalls powerstick and ETD setup that I installed a few years back. Which by the way is what cause the front mount to fail. Just too much stress on the mount with the top being so rigid. With the top and front out, the bottom was much easier to work with. I propped up the front of the engine just a little which gave a enough room for me to pull the lower mount out. Everything will go back in reverse order.

Cleaned up the torque rods (upper,lower,and front) and prepped for making them solid mounts with 3M Window Weld. Messy stuff to say the least. Your supposed to wait 5-7 days to let them cure, but you can accelerate the process by setting them under a heat lamp. One tube of 3M WW is all I needed for all three. Probably on Sunday I will do some trimming and cleanup on them and allow the curing process to continue through into next week.

While things are curing, I can get my front rotors turned, but also its a chance for me to clean up the calipers so that I can paint them. Nice. If I had more time, I might also take some time to paint the stock rims too. I think I will be going for white. I think it will really stand out that way.

Something else happened today that was very cool. Like an idiot, I threw away the brake pad covers (oem stock). Stupid. Went to the dealer today to see if I could buy them separately.... ummm no. You have to buy the pads as a complete kit. Crap. The dealer doesn't carry ceramic pads, so I didn't want oem. As luck would have it, the tech pulled a nice one on me. Took the covers from a kit he had and gave them to me no charge. The only thing he asked was to remember to come back when I need service. Fair enough. I am over due for my 60k mile checkup... so that might work out too. Maybe I can get my timing belt tensioner upgraded with an aftermarket one that is better while I am at it.

All that being done, I was fortunate enough to get the part delivered for our gas mower. I spent some time installing it, but no luck starting so far. I will have to look at this weekend some more. So I broke out the reel mower we recently bought, and commenced to mowing the backyard before the rain set in. So far it hasn't started raining. Need to do some touch up plus the front yard tomorrow.

Can't wait to see how the car behaves once I get everything back together. Just in time for May 15th.... AutoX event in Louisville, KY - Papa John's Cardinal Stadium. It will also be nice to stop hearing my exhaust and catback banging up against the frame everytime the engine lurches forward... since it won't be moving any more, or rather very little at all. It should also be a significant improvement on shifting as well. I figure they will last a few years before I might have to do them again. Maybe by then I might consider upgrading to something like the Innovative mounts instead.

Well thats enough rambling. Calling it a night.

2010 - Points Event #1 : Final Results

2010-03-22T18:34:00.001-04:00

Here are the final posting results of this weekend's event.. click here

2010 - Points Event #1 : Another in dash video view

2010-03-22T18:10:00.000-04:00

Here is another in dash video of another driver at the 2010 Season opener for KYSCCA (UPS, Louisville)

2010 - Points Event #1

2010-03-22T00:53:00.003-04:00

Attending my first AutoX event... WHOO HOO !!! I am addicted. Okay that said... now I know I have a lot to learn about my driving skills as well as my car. Started the day out with a DNF (Did Not Finish) since I got lost on the course. After getting over my embarrassment, I moved up to 9th place in the STO class of 14 vehicles. My times went from 50.x seconds down to mid 46.x seconds. The big thing I learned was I had to avoid my automatic reaction to brake while turning... and instead use the throttle to control my speed as I entered into turns. How fast was I going ? Good question. There were light poles which I noticed when I was walking the course, but honestly... I don't remember them while driving. All I was thinking of was cones and when was my next few turns, and WHOO HOO! THIS IS AWESOME !!

Here is a video of someone else's run, but I thought it would be interesting for you all to watch what the track was like from the driver's point of view.

P.S. Good thing nobody taped my DNF as I ran off the course on the first run. LOL.

It is a sad day in Shelbyville....

2010-03-03T20:39:00.002-05:00

Just noticed that the race for this weekend was cancelled. ( tear drop hits the ground ). On the upside, I have my new tires AND I have found a site that serves as a posting location for Auto Events => http://www.myautoevents.com

Tires installed... photo opportunity

2010-03-03T17:24:00.002-05:00

First off, they are so much smoother for the ride compared to the beat up old tires I had before. Ahhh. Now for a bit of before and after looks. The lower right hand corner is a before and also prior to the exhaust upgrade. You can see that it indeed is a tad bit wider as well as considerably more aggressive.

Upper left corner is the new setup and the lower right is the older setup

Here is a full rear view of the setup. Can tires be sexy ? Of course they can....

Nothing wrong a fat rearend

Impatiently waiting... ;o)

2010-03-03T11:09:00.000-05:00

Took the Si into the shop to have the new tires mounted, balanced, and 4 wheel alignment. The damage is $170 out the door. Its near 11am, so it should be done within the hour since I dropped it off at 8am when they opened. I was the second customer and was beat out by another by just a few minutes... not that it would changed anything of how long I suppose.

In any case, the guys at the shop liked the car and the setup. Admittedly they said they prefer domestics over imports, but they really liked the way it wasn't overstated some Fast and Furious car. Made me laugh a bit no doubt. They agreed with me about the dislike for the fartcans that people claim to be performance exhaust setups. Yuck. Give me a well tuned race header and catback exhaust, with a sweet mellow and low tone. Yum.

Well, I need to be getting ready to head back out to pick the car up. See how it rides on the way home. The guys at the local Valvoline shop ( shout-out to Brandon ! ) are equally anxious to see the car with the new tires mounted. If autocross pans out for me this year ( and I suspect it will ), I will most likely keep these tires and rims as daily drivers, and purchase some lightweight 18x8's and getting track worthy set of tires. The tires will definitely be wider that is for certain.. maybe 245/45-18. I will need to do some shopping around to ensure I get the right wheel and tire size to match up together correctly.

Need to also look at installing an upgraded front and rear sway bar. I have been debating about whether I should pursue the HFP suspension setup from Honda or go aftermarket. I am leaning towards the HFP setup. I definitely will need to upgrade the brake setup to a big-brake kit. However, all of that will need to be looked at much further down the road. By then I may be looking at getting another vehicle for a daily driver and set this one aside for racing only. Really depends on how much of this becomes just a hobby that I do 2-3 times a year, or something more regular than that.

Well I am out of here for now. Probably post some pics up later tonite. You know I have to take pics. See Ya!

Pics a few days before getting the new tires installed...

2010-02-28T12:47:00.000-05:00

Wednesday (Mar 3rd), I get my new tires put on. You can see that they are slight bit wider than the stock OEM installs. The height however is the same more or less. They probably extend about a 1/2 inch or less on either side of the mount point from the originals. Just enough to tuck in nicely.

Thought it would be good to get some before and after shots.

Introduction to Autocross

2010-02-14T21:32:00.020-05:00

Evolution Driving School is a good example of what I will be learning come this April 10th. Here is a video from Evolution School's site, which after watching has me more stoked about this new racing opportunity.

Status Update : BFG g-Force T/A KDW

2010-02-13T09:23:00.001-05:00

Two things... first the official identification is just BFG g-Force T/A KDW ... not KDW2. Apparently the "2" is something tirerack and many other places added to denote whether it was the new tread pattern or the old. Okay that said, ordered them today and they should be delivered in about 3 business days from Monday, 15-FEB-2010.

Ordered them from Discount Tire Direct and with the BFG mail-in rebate it will end up costing me $566 out of pocket. Not too shabby for a set of performance tires. I did settle on 225/R45-17 which should fit nicely without any rub. If it rubs a bit, I can roll the inside of the fenders a bit most likely to compensate for that small contact should it exist.

Next trip will be to get the tires mounted and a 4 wheel alignment. Unfortunately there are no road force balance shops in my town, but I know a place not too far away.

Show or Race.. pick one or the other...

2010-02-07T16:27:00.004-05:00

Can't have it both ways... race car and show car... I will stick with race car. That said.. nice photoshop job results a sweet widebody style Si.

Perks of side street parking...

2010-02-07T15:58:00.003-05:00

Not my car, but clearly makes me happy that I park in a garage at work and at home both. Apparently someone was zipping through a Louisville neighborhood and lost control.

Some more info on the BFG KDW2s

2010-02-07T07:20:00.005-05:00

Did some more digging... and I am leaning towards towards the BFGs. However, 235/40/17 may not be an option. Looks like 225/45/17 is where I will be most likely. After looking at the specs at the BFG home site, my rims are too narrow. by about an inch. Enough that I won't roll the dice on them working.

Now that leads me to an upside then... I can get a set of BFG Drag Radials for racing. However, I think I will start with just the KDWs and invest in Hondata FlashPro this year. Maybe late in the year I can look at getting a set of drag radials.

Found them both at Discount Tire Direct as well :

BF Goodrich g-Force T/A KDW NT

BF Goodrich g-Force T/A Drag Radial

UPS, Louisville, KY

2010-02-07T04:37:00.004-05:00

Finally stumbled across a video of the UPS setup in Louisville, KY. Thats what I will be going to on March 7th for my sound check and hopefully some ride-a-long time.

Anatomy of Autocross

2010-02-07T04:31:00.000-05:00

Ask I keep finding things, I will update my car blog site. A lot of this is for historical purposes to remind me of my road trip so to speak with my Si. So here is another item for the books: A brief but informative visualization of a day at the track.

Helmet shopping...

2010-02-07T00:49:00.002-05:00

Solo racing generally has loaner helmets available. Most likely at some point I will want to get my own. Looks like pricing can be 140.00 bucks and up.

http://soloracer.com/helmettech.html

BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW 2

2010-02-06T14:32:00.002-05:00

Anyone have opinions about BFG g-Force T/A KDW2's as a daily driver and Autocross usage ?

The BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW-2 (KDW for Key feature: Dry and Wet traction, the "2" is our addition and identifies that this is the second generation g-Force T/A KDW) is the Ultra High Performance Summer tire that was developed to provide a blend of a dramatic-looking, ultra high performance tread design with superior dry and wet road performance. The BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW-2 is available in sizes for drivers of the world's hottest sports cars, coupes, sedans and light trucks. Like all summer tires, g-Force T/A KDW-2 tires are not intended to be driven in near-freezing temperatures, through snow or on ice.

The g-Force T/A KDW-2 features large tread blocks to enhance dry road stability, handling and wear under high torque loads, while rounded shoulder profiles help provide feedback for the driver by communicating the tire's progressive and predictable characteristics as they reach their limits of adhesion. A silica-reinforced tread compound with wide circumferential and lateral grooves form a directional tread design to speed water evacuation, improve wet traction and reduce the risk of hydroplaning. Internally, the twin steel belts are reinforced by BFGoodrich's ETEC (Equal TEnsion Containment) System which uses spirally wound nylon strips to provide excellent strength, consistent footprint pressure and maximum contact area under Y-speed rated conditions while it reduces weight and helps provide more uniform ride quality. The g-Force T/A KDW-2 tires feature g-Control sidewall inserts to resist deflection and generate cornering force while rim protector ribs help protect alloy wheels from curb damage.

Tire shopping...

2010-02-06T14:15:00.000-05:00

The quest begins... currently sitting on top Bridgestone Potenza G019 Grid series tires ( 215/45R17). Its time to replace them. Finally. I have done some reading here and there, and think I will be going with 235/40R17 for size this time. My rims are Momo Corse S-Five 17x7 with 40 offset. From what I read, that should be just fine and still allow me to rotate the tires as needed. I had planned on getting a pair of drag radials this year, but I might pass on that this year. Instead I will keep the best two tires I have and put them on my stock rims. I will use that for the drag strip when I go do that. When not mounted, I will keep one in the trunk as a full size spare and put the donut to the side. Again.. finally.

Not certain which tire to get just yet however. Was thinking about Dunlop DZ101's but the reviews have not been that great. Wondering now if Nitto is the way to go or maybe Falken Azenis.

Something new for this year...

2010-02-04T21:12:00.000-05:00

Still plan on hitting the drag strips this year. Hopefully some 1/4 mile tracks this year. However, another one I am interested in playing with is SCCA racing. Scheduled to attend some beginner school training on April 10th now, with the following day point racing. For those that don't know what autocross racing is, here is a sample... looks like fun doesn't it?

VTEC History & Technology

2010-01-21T21:24:00.002-05:00

Found a recent article posting on Honda Tuning Magazine which speaks to the history behind Honda VTEC technology and where it is going. Here are a few excerpts from the article...

Full original article posting, click here

VTEC History & Technology - Wrenchin'

Where Would We Be Without It?

May, 2009

By Tim Kelly

VTEC Anniversary

Though it's been called many things, the VTEC acronym stands for Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control. VVTLEC doesn't quite roll off the lips, but the adjectives one tends to spew out after experiencing it for the first time do. They run the gamut but almost always include the "F" word. Ol' Soichiro-san would've been pleased. April 2009 marks the 20th anniversary of VTEC in the automotive world. The 1989.5 Integra XSi was the first production Honda that featured the technology. Shortly after, Civics and CRXs received the same B16A engine.

But all of this began much earlier-sometime during the early 1980s, in fact-and none of it had anything to do with automobile engines. The technology behind VTEC originated from Honda's motorcycle side. Honda's engineers knew that four-valve engines made great top-end power, but that two-valve ones were competent down low and even idled nice. The quest soon became one in which a 500cc engine would spin to 11,000 rpm yet idle patiently at a mere 1,000 rpm. The result was what Honda internally labeled as its "REV" mechanism, or "HYPER VTEC" to the rest of us. The technology allowed for only one intake and one exhaust valve per cylinder to operate below certain engine speeds but for two intake and two exhaust valves per cylinder to function above that threshold. It allowed for the best of both worlds.

How i-VTEC Works

The "i" in i-VTEC stands for "intelligent." The system features variable camshaft timing but the "VTEC" part doesn't exactly stand for VTEC as we know it. But let's start with the variable valve timing part. Nearly everyone's seen aftermarket adjustable cam gears. Honda's i-VTEC system dynamically adjusts camshaft timing using an oil-driven system that positions the camshaft within a 50-degree timing range depending on the circumstances. It's a heck of a lot easier than loosening and tightening a bunch of cam gear bolts just to pick up a few horsepower. The technology is only featured on the intake camshaft, and is almost exclusive to the K-series. Alone, Honda refers to it as VTC (Variable Timing Control). The obvious benefit is improved emissions. At startup and while idling, the camshaft can be retarded, reducing valve overlap for cleaner combustion. It also works well for mid-range power. Advancing the intake cam in the low- and mid-range areas provides a noticeable bump in torque. To date, Honda has not used this technology on the exhaust side.

Honda's also been known to match i-VTEC on engines for use as a valve-idling mechanism, not a timing and lift one. This system operates a single intake valve per cylinder until the VTEC mechanism locks the two intake rocker arms together, causing both intake valves to open. It's not the three-lobe mechanism we're accustomed to by any means, but it's still referred to as VTEC. K-series engines like the Accord's are different. Here, i-VTEC allows for variable intake camshaft timing as well as the valve-idling mechanism. Most SOHC engines like the L-, R-, and J-Series engines simply take advantage of the valve idling, where as few as 12 out of the 16 valves can operate at a time. The "intelligent" camshaft timing changes won't work with SOHC engines like these since both the intake and the exhaust share the same camshaft gear.

What A-VTEC Is

The future of VTEC, A-VTEC, is the pinnacle of camshaft timing. It'll allow for continuously variable camshaft timing and lift. Much like a pneumatic or an electronic valvetrain promises, the valves would be able to open at any time, for any amount of time, and at any lift. Of course, this is all pending on whether or not the technology goes into production, as it hasn't made its way onto any Honda yet. At this point, it's little more than a patent application.

As you might have guessed, the "A" in A-VTEC stands for "advanced." In A-VTEC systems, the camshaft remains enclosed within a sleeve with openings between 270 and 360 degrees of camshaft rotation. Also occupying that space is a semi-rocker arm that features a roller, spanning the same 270-360 degrees, which rides along the camshaft lobe. The system also features a "shoe" that's positioned on top of the roller for the conventional rocker arm (the one that actually activates the valves) to ride on. The previously mentioned sleeve also traps the semi-rocker arm. The semi-rocker arm features a curved profile-it's thick on one end, thin on the other. The sleeve rides along a gear positioned on its bottom side that controls the orientation of the semi-rocker arm. From here, it's relatively easy to see how the variable lift part happens. As the gear that's attached to the camshaft sleeve rotates, the thicker portion of the semi-rocker arm transitions over the camshaft lobe creating maximum lift. As it rotates the other way and the rocker arm's thinner portion transitions over the camshaft lobe, lift decreases. It's all kind of like BMW's Valvetronic system but far less complex and with less reciprocating mass. By adding i-VTEC's VTC system, camshaft timing becomes variable. With both systems in place, there's potential for both economy and efficiency to make significant leaps.

Tire Saga continued...

2010-01-12T14:19:00.000-05:00

I had to know what the whole thing looked like. Ouch! I can only guess that its a piece reinforcement pipe for the concrete dividers in the construction area. Glad I wasn't on a long trip, it would have been a nasty one.

Use of TC-W3 grade oil in fuel ??

2010-01-12T12:10:00.002-05:00

Saw a posting online about an old school trick ... basically adding 1 oz of 2-stroke per every 5 gallons of fuel. I am doing some asking around to see what others say.

For more details read below and also follow the very long thread at ls1.com.

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91206]Been testing - LS1 Performance Information

Quote :

you guys know I test constantly and oil/tribology is my thing so here goes. I know the gasoline today is ****. Very dry and poor quality. Throw in ethanol and you got crap/corrosive gasoline. I use Fuel Power/Lucas UCL with great success in my cars and other peoples cars. At the first of the year some of us "lubrication physcho's" (mainly from the aircraft industry) discussed the **** quality of gasoline and the absolute advantages of running a fuel additive with lubrication capabilities and I think the testing is now complete and the results are very good. Biggest problem we had was the proper amount but we are now satisfied this works very well and you will have a smoother running engine/more power/better MPG....so here it is.....

What we are trying to accomplish ( The deliverables)

We need to lubricate the fuel pump/seals/injectors.

We need to clean the fuel system and scavenge water that ethanol attracts.

We need a film of protection in our fuel system to stop corrosion.

We need a cleaner for our spark plugs/valves/combustion chambers.

We need to clean the ring packs

We need to leave a film on the cylinder walls to eliminate cold start metal wear.

This was my groups short list of deliverables. Of course we knew if we accomplished this list the car should A) Run Smoother B) Run more efficiently C) Parts will last longer i.e. fuel pumps/injectors etc. D) We should see more RWHP and MPG

We did it. For pennies.

2 Stroke oil. Not just any two stroke oil But we needed the detergents etc. and found the perfect oil/add packs/viscosity in a marine 2 stroke oil you can get for under $10 bucks a gallon anywhere. We used Pennzoil Marine 2 stroke for our testing.

Use 1oz of the two stroke oil per 5 gallons of gas ( 1oz-5gallons/ 2ozs - 10 gallons etc. and that is the perfect ratio. Too much and it will make your engine run worse....too little and it wont do anything.....use the proper amount.....get a little bottle and keep it in your car.....We have seen a maximum of 5% better MPG down to a minimum of 2% better MPG. All of our test mules reported much smoother idles and cruising. No smoking or ill effects. No residue on plugs our pistons....actually the opposite....we saw "cleaning".....I am now comfortable recommending this for all. I also now run this mixture in my GTO/Mercedes/Silverado and G6 with all having smoother running motors and all gaining MPG. Give it a try and let me know your experience. Follow the mixture ratio to the letter. 1 oz per 5 gallons of gas.

More on the tire ordeal...

2010-01-12T12:09:00.000-05:00

Well I took the tire off and headed over to the Big-O-Tires just down the street from me.. btw, I wish garages wouldn't torque the lugs on so tight. It is so unnecessary. My Lancer had a documented torque of 14 ft.lbs. Seemed very small to me, but that was what the manual said. Anyways...

I wrapped the tire up in a black garbage bag for fear of bodily harm if I were to drop the tire in the trunk of my wife's TSX. I get to the garage, and they looked at the tire and said there was no way to repair the tire. The hole that would be left would simply be too big to patch from the inside. My stomach churned as I contemplated how much this was going to run me. To replace the tire with the same Potenza series, it would be about 160 plus tax, plus another 20 in shipping since they would have to order it. Last time I ordered a tire, it was delayed by several days. Add to that the cost of install and now I am at 200 plus. With the weather working against me, winter time and all, I simply can't afford to stay home. Much too much to do at work, nor do I wish to run on the tiny thing they call a spare. It amazes me how many people drive around on those as if they were safe to run on for prolonged periods. Let's be blunt.. its down right stupid.

Realizing that I will replacing all 4 tires in the spring, I didn't see it making any sense to do anything but what made sense... so I opted for something they had there. Tread pattern is different, tire is different, etc. Does it match, no... but will it work, yes. Should be about 140 installed I think. Waiting at home for that phone call that its done.

I asked them to hold onto that piece of metal for me. I want to see more of whatever it is. In the end, I will be able to go back to work tomorrow.. YIPEE!!

Can I be any more unlucky ? Tire damage tonite..Argh!

2010-01-11T21:33:00.002-05:00

During the summer I ran over a piece of flat iron that I could not see since it was laying flat on the road. That experience left me with a one inch cut into my rims and a gash across the steel sidewall cores right at the tire bead of all places. That cost me to special order a replacement tire.

Tonite I get home after spending some extra time at work instead of being home spending dinner with my family, and hear this hissing sound after getting out of my car in the garage. I look at the back tire and I see this monster piece of sheet metal sticking out of my tire (see picture). Aside from the colorful language, I realized I was also very lucky since this could have just as well been a complete blow out.

I have decided not to pull the object out for fear what lies underneath and into the tire. I will be taking it to the shop tomorrow to see what the damage is. My hope is that they can extract the metal and apply a simple patch on the inside. Guess it depends upon how big the gash is. Hate to see more money burn down the drain again.

Hood Spacers : Truth or Fiction ?

2010-01-10T16:11:00.002-05:00

Thought I would perform a low cost experiment on the ride. Hood spacers. For those that don't know what hood spacers are, essentially its a bushing that sits between your hood mount in the rear and the hood itself, causing a 'space'.

There have been multiple stated reasons why people do this to their car :

Make room for a modified engine which is a little too tall
Make room for a cowl induction setup so that the modified airbox fits
Make it look like you have been in a wreck so that non-drivers won't feel the need to smash into your ride
Allow heat to escape the engine bay to keep things cooler
Make room for ITBs (Independent Throttle Body)
Reduce the magnetic polarity of your ride so that it does not attract shopping carts
K20 has the header on the rear of the engine block, so this would facilitate evacuation of heat from the race header
More aerodynamic
Because Import Tuner proved it reduced ambient temperatures in the engine bay by 15-20 degrees
I can hear the vroom-vroom of the engine better (its true, the noise level goes up a notch though not ear splitting levels mind you)
...

To name only a few and if you were to cruise the car forums, you would find your good share of bashing how stupid it looks. That said, most of those people who were bashing the idea probably also never gave it a thought to test the theory out. I figured..why not. So I wasn't about to spend 30-40 bucks at a car site for spacers. A bit much for an experiment I think.

I wandered over to my trusty 8thcivic.com and found a DIY guide on hood spacers. Essentially, some extended bolts and Nylon bushing/spacers is what it amounts to. I picked up some additional washers which were inch diameter. These were to be the top and bottom of the spacer.

I spray painted the metal washers with flat black paint designed for painting cooking grills. Then painted the spacers Red using a durable paint. After a few coats on the spacers and the washers, then used just a small amount of super glue to afix the washers to the spacers. This was more so just to hold the top washer, the spacer, and the bottom washer together as a single unit so that when mounting them they do not slip around and become misaligned.

Why the washers ? Though was that this would spread out the stress of the hood mount points equally across the spacer and not just where the hood and mount points come in contact with the nylon material.

With a little help of my (almost 10) youngest son, Shaun, I removed the bolts from the hood and installed the new spacers. The end result, just a small amount of gap but noticeable. I suspect that for a larger gap, one could get a 2cm wide spacer/bushing.

Using an aluminum spacer it would have looked like this :

Mine came out like this :

Not like this which is a bunch of stacked washers.. yuck !

Nor did I want to leave it just plain white like the DIY guide...

Long term I would not see the nylon setup working however. My fear is that it could become brittle from the temperature changes. Ideally, the material should be something aluminum. A few ideas I have seen and items I have thought of that would be good spacers : Bushing from a skateboard or other small bearing/bushing setup or small solid pulley wheel.

Another different idea might be that instead of using small round bushings and an idea that I would be more inclined to doing is :

1) Purchase a 1 inch think aluminum thick bar from the hardware store.
2) Draw out a elongated oval shape that would encompass adequately the bolt holes needed
3) Mark the bolt hole locations and drill
4) Brace bar and cut/drill.
5) Smooth out all edges and sand down for that brushed aluminum look
6) Purchase appropriately length bolt and washer set
7) Install and enjoy

In any case, right now I have take the cheap way out. I will post some pics a little bit later. I need to brace myself for the jokes and jabs now. What I have read thus far about whether it works or not ? Only considering information from those that have done it :

- Temperatures do appear to be running lower
- Visible effects of hot air wafting out of the engine can be seen
- Need to be cautious during cold months because it can fog the window sometimes

Nobody, I repeat, nobody has reported that this makes their car go faster. Period. What I do feel confident in saying so far is that if you are strictly a daily driver... its next to blue lights on your windshield washer nozzles. However if you do run the track on occassion, there could be some benefits to it. I will say again that the noise levels increased slightly, and if for any other reason but that alone, I might be inclined to keep the modification. I like the sound of my setup and don't mind hearing a bit more of it ;o)

In the end, to each his own and don't be dissuaded by the masses because you are being different. It is your ride and yours alone. It would be very boring if we were all clones of each other with the perfect car build. Its the variety that makes it all very interesting and hearing how each of us got to where we are.

Lessons learned...

2009-12-28T22:03:00.001-05:00

Let me tell you a little story about a recent maintenance event that I had to deal with. Performance went to poop more or less while driving to work one day. I figured I got a hold of some bad gas, so I purchased some Sea Foam and dumped that into my tank of gas. Though it served some benefit I am certain, it didn't resolve my issue. So I decided to get the Fuel System Cleaning service performed. Ugly mess internally it appeared. Did that resolve the issue... maybe a little, but still running like a pig, almost to the point of being embarrassed to drive the car. So if its not the fuel, and its not the fuel system... what next ?

Then it hit me, check the O2 sensors and there I find that the wires had been nicked or melted on the secondary sensor. The question was by what. Did some research on 8thcivic.com and discovered that as a special gift for those of us with racing headers and angled defoulers for our O2 sensors, we get the privilege of having melted wires. The solution is to rotate the retaining clip around 180 degrees to keep the clip away from the sensor wires. Great solution, but what I was unaware of was that this had been abusing my sensor wire for nearly a year. I figure odds on chance that my performance was getting progressively worse over time and finally hit some threshhold.

So I went to Autozone for the sensor and they wanted something like 200 bucks. Checked online and found that College Hill Honda had it for 68 bucks plus 20 in shipping. Now thats more like it. So I order it and install it on a Sunday afternoon. Not too hard, but kind of a pain because the wire connection is actually inside the cabin and underneath the center console. Weird in my opinion. Anyways, I get it installed and take it for a spin, and I think its work so much better. Till it warmed up, then back to poop. Great.

So what next, and here is the learning lesson... called my Dad who had a long career as a mechanic. He was said check the plugs or better replace them because they may have been impacted by the bad sensor. So I pull the plugs and they are glazed over, a sign of running hot. Which is starting to make sense. The bad O2 sensor had the engine running lean, which made it run hot, which dirtied up the fuel system, which affected the fuel mileage, which glazed the plugs... and here it is... increased the gap from .040 to .060. The tolerance range is .039 - .044. Ouch!

So I took about 30 minutes with a steel brush, some brake cleaner, and some emory paper to clean the plugs up. I re-gapped the plugs back to .040 and reinstalled the plugs. Closed everything up and took it for a spin again. The CEL came on briefly and went away just as quick. I am guessing it had to recalibrate and close things up a bit since it was getting a proper spark now. Ran around that evening and opened up a few times, so much more life in the engine now. The big test was going to be heading back and forth to work over the remainder of the week.

I will say that it has been running great since then. So I have added to my calendar of things to do, is to check the plugs, wiring, etc. at least once a year and definitely before I get back into the drag racing seasons come Spring 2010. The other lesson learned is that one does not always have to replace plugs if they are suitable for cleaning instead and regapping.

500+ whp on boosted stock block

2009-12-22T07:29:00.000-05:00

Just an example of what an Si is capable of becoming with a bit of loving care... a true beast.

FlashPro Live Tuning !!!

2009-12-19T07:37:00.002-05:00

Live tuning allows the real-time update of some tables in the ECU. This greatly speeds up the tuning process as minor changes take effect immediately, without waiting for a 90 second upload.

How Live Tuning works

Live tuning works by altering the ECU so that the ECU copies table information from flash memory (which cannot be changed without re-writing the whole ECU) to RAM (which can be changed quickly while the ECU is running). This copying process occurs every time the ECU RAM is cleared, which is every time the ECU is reset or the ignition is switched off and on. When tables are editing in FlashProManager, the changes are sent to the ECU where the RAM tables are updated, so that the ECU tables are updated in a fraction of a second.

I also took sometime and linked the 14 different YouTube videos on FlashPro for those interested in hearing more about the product.

To review again what FlashPro brings to the table for me :

FlashPro features

Programmable ECU interface.
Live Tuning
FlashProManager Windows software.
Check and clear diagnostic codes.
Custom laptop gauges.
Dual calibration storage - upload from one of two calibrations stored in the FlashPro

2006+ Civic Si / Civic Type R AFM/MAF based calibrations

Ignition, fuel, cam angle, idle speed table editing.
VTEC window.
Rev and launch limiters.
AFM calibration table.
Wideband input.
Speedometer adjustment.
Corrected Air Fuel Ratio
Readiness and Diagnostic trouble codes.
Idle Speed adjustment
Map tracing & lambda overlay.
Advanced Graphing.
20 starting calibrations for common intakes and race header combinations.

2006+ Civic Si / Civic Type R MAP based calibrations

Above features plus:
Rev hang eliminated
Expanded fuel, ignition & cam angle tables for forced induction.
4 bar MAP sensor support (40 psi).
50 degree cam angle movement for more midrange torque (up from 45 degrees maximum).
Support for larger injectors.
Injector latency / dead time.
Individual cylinder fuel & ignition trim.
Disable Primary and Secondary oxygen sensors.
Race vehicle sensor disabling.
Radiator Fan control.
Target Throttle table.
Ignition and Fuel temperature compensation tables.
Speed limiter removed.
35 starting calibrations for intake, headers, forced induction & injector combinations.

Reviews from others => http://www.hondata.com/flashpro_reviews.html

Video of Spoon Type-R Civic - 245 bhp @ 10,000+ rpm

2009-10-16T13:38:00.002-04:00

This is modified K20 engine with a blend of 2000 and Type-R best of best mixed. Impressive build out of a small 2 liter engine.

Article and Video detailing the basics of variable valve timing as in the case of the K20Z3 engine

2009-10-16T06:18:00.003-04:00

Explanation of variable valve timing that I thought was very interesting.

Looking at times again... might have been wrong about the best run

2009-10-10T13:21:00.000-04:00

Although Reaction time does not impact your ET, it does impact who the winner is... rt + et

Reaction Time .3798
60 ft 2.2681
330 ft 6.2762
ET @ 594 ft 8.8903
ET 1/8th mile 9.4710
1/8 MPH 77.49

RT + ET = 9.867

Reaction Time .1028
60 ft 2.2952
330 ft 6.3292
ET @ 594 ft 8.9680
ET 1/8th mile 9.5522
1/8 MPH 77.03

RT + ET = 9.655

Means that the latter was true best of the night even though the ET was slower.

YouTube videos finally uploaded... nine in total

2009-10-09T07:07:00.001-04:00

Well finally got them all uploaded. This pass was probably the overall best of the night :

HIZTOY lining up at Ohio Valley for first run...

2009-10-09T00:09:00.000-04:00

While I was out at the track, probably my first run given how much daylight is in the pic... someone took a pic and posted it on local website (http://www.502streetscene.net).

Its not a pic that I figured I would ever see... Mikey likes it!

07-OCT-2009 :: Ohio Valley Dragway, Kentucky

2009-10-08T01:43:00.001-04:00

First let me say, Brandon... I will get videos uploaded be patient... that said, I went to the track today and had some of my best times and learned a few things. My best overall run was

Reaction Time .3798
60 ft 2.2681
330 ft 6.2762
ET @ 594 ft 8.8903
ET 1/8th mile 9.4710
1/8 MPH 77.49

My best reaction time was .1028 compared to my typical .50 and greater. So I was pleased to see that run as well.

Reaction Time .1028
60 ft 2.2952
330 ft 6.3292
ET @ 594 ft 8.9680
ET 1/8th mile 9.5522
1/8 MPH 77.03

My top speed for the night was 77.69 mph

Reaction Time .3898
60 ft 2.2783
330 ft 6.2802
ET @ 594 ft 8.8980
ET 1/8th mile 9.4772
1/8 MPH 77.69

My average overall reaction time was 0.305 . So what changed for me... I had been looking at previous videos that I took during past runs. I was not anticipating the green light correctly. I had one run where I choked and jump the light and fouled with a -0.0519. Grrrr. So the videos really have helped.

Another thing that has troubled me in the past is that stupid VSA on the newer cars including mine. I have always turned it off in earlier runs since it can get a little annoyed at tires spinning at the launch. So this time I had it off as well. I had a hard time getting my tires to hook tonite. I figured it was because it was cold, like 55 degrees (F), and there was the wait time between runs.

Tires simply were not warming up. So I figured I would experiment... test and tune night you know. I normally don't warm up the tires by doing a burnout. Street tires don't appear to gain much from burnouts, so I am told. Since the tires are cold, why not warm them up with the VSA off so that I can get a good burnout. Then for the run turn the VSA back on to reduce the wheel spin at the launch. As soon as did this I went from my first ET's of 10.11, 9.83, and 9.93 down to a nice 9.59. To eliminate the possibility of a fluke, I repeated that same method for the remaining runs. The rest of the evening my ET was 9.47 for 5 consecutive runs. One of those was even in a different lane. So I am convinced that it works... at least in cold weather. Wonder how it will perform for warm weather... we will have to see.

I am planning on purchasing a pair of lightweight rims and BFG T/A Drag Radials or Mickey Thompson Drag Radials in the spring of next year. These should really help with lowering my 60ft as well as my overall ET.

Took a number of videos tonite which I need to create media files for and then upload to youtube. You can find all of my published videos by searching for the user bsc7080yec. Once I get them built I will post same on youtube, with my best run viewable here.

One run you won't see however, nor posted time is my last time... I missed my shift entirely and could not get back into gear. Sad way to end the night, but I will try and forget that it happened. I really was excited to see improvements in my launch and the ET. Granted some is due to the cold air, and some maybe due to the velocity stack modification forcing more cold air into the intake.

For more timeslip history and modifications you can check here :

History of Timeslips

Smoothing out some rough spots...

2009-09-21T20:47:00.004-04:00

Brandon, friend of mine, wanted a vid of my Si doing a burnout. Well my attempt was kinda wimpy... so much to his disappointment (and I know he hated doing it )... given it a go. Here are the results... not too shaby.

Clean shot

2009-08-26T23:31:00.001-04:00

DSCF8059
Originally uploaded by bsc7080

My personal photographer for the day, youngest of my sons, took this photo of my engine. Clean engine... clean shot.

Velocity Stack installed

2009-08-23T21:25:00.001-04:00

Finally got around to upgrading my straight pipe on my intake to a velocity stack as well as moving it more in line with the lower grille opening. Link below is to the full before and after set.

FullSet Link

Tried to get the stack further over, but not a whole lot of room to work with. Its probably not as effective as if I were to bore a hole through the bumper... but I will pass on that. Its better than what it was and better than the inlet being inside the engine bay in my opinion. Always thought it was odd that Honda had the inlet all the way up in the engine bay. Has to get toasty in there compared to the cold air coming from down towards the bottom.

The Civic, like so many other cars has a high pressure area right at the lower bumper as well as the cowl at the base of the front windshield. Both areas are prime locations for cold air inlets. Next year I hope to work on a complimenting cowl induction setup to go with the lower intake.

I will need to get back to the dyno and see what differences this makes if any.

I already have a dyno which shows the difference of when I went from stock setup to the icebox configuration.

I reference the dyno not so much as indicator of how much power the modifications are producing, but more so what the comparative difference is as mods are actually added to the vehicle. So what the true peak power is... I don't know really and its not really that important to me in the end. I just like to know what I am adding is making some difference or not.

BEFORE

DURING

AFTER

Working on my intake inlet at bumper

2009-08-19T22:55:00.001-04:00

I have been debating how to improve the air flow on my icebox intake. I found an old oval airbox from a truck that I considered using as a fiberglass mold so that I could make something that would curve into the bumper. As nice as it sounded, I thought afterwards that it would be overkill most likely.

So I was skimming google and flickr for information on ideas, when I stumbled on info about velocity stacks for intakes. I had seen them before used in a manner of ways. So that led me to rethinking how I could leverage that approach.

If I replace all of the hose from the airbox down to the velocity stack, and mount the stack right behind the driver side of the lower bumper... where the mesh grille is at... I should be able to fully take advantage of that high pressure zone there as well as leverage the benefits of the air flow improvement by use of the velocity stack.

I will get some minor air disturbance from the grille mesh itself, but I think considerably less than what I am getting now with a straight pipe that is sitting off to the side of the grille. I mean it works now, and I am getting something from the setup, but it can be better.

Once I get things reconfigured, I need to take it back to AutoLab and have another dyno run on it.

Picture day

2009-08-15T19:56:00.001-04:00

Took some pics today of my car. I have been meaning to get some decent pics beyond my drive way. Here are a few pics :

And finally a wallpaper off of one of the shots just for something interesting :

06 CIVIC SI SUPERCHARGED BURNOUT

2009-08-15T11:58:00.001-04:00

Not my car... but what a burnout. Can you say time for new tires ?

Playing around with my digital camera mounted and unmounted in car...

2009-08-11T06:42:00.000-04:00

On the way home from the track the other day, I mounted the camera on the tripod in the car. Then I set the shutter at different speeds and used the timer to take some automated pictures while I was driving.

The next day took a few a more. This time without the camera mount. Both of them provided for some interesting effects I think.

The camera mount in my car is a simple project involving an old tripod, drill, and some U-bolts. Perform some basic measurements around your head rest supports (assumes yours are removable). Then drill and call it done more or less. Cheap and effective. I thought for video it would be shakey, but most video camera have built-in stabilizers.

Videos of track night...

2009-08-10T07:38:00.001-04:00

I have the pleasure and displeasure of making these videos available. It was my second time at the track... so much to learn..but that dang VSA ... wish it was hard switch so it wouldn't come back on every time I started the car.

Now with the VSA off... much better... trust me, it will get better with more practice...

Trying to sell off the old parts...

2009-08-02T09:54:00.003-04:00

Well since I loaded up on a few mods, it has left me with a few spare parts like rims, headlamps, and exhaust. If I can get these sold, I can turn around the money I get and put it back into purchasing the Hondata FlashPro engine management setup. Retails for about $800. Worth every penny I am confident. So maybe I might be able to get it and start building my maps sooner than I originally planned. Guess we will shall see.

Banner Pic for 8th Civic KY Crew

2009-08-02T09:53:00.000-04:00

Back in June, went up to Northern Kentucky for one of the monthly 8th Civic Kentucky meets. Met a number of 8th Civic members. Traded stories of encounters with the trust boys in blue, ups and downs of being a Honda owner, and any aspirations and future plans for our rides.

That's me 4th in from the left.

All in all a good time. Would have been nice to get a few bird's eye view camera shots as we cruised down the interstate in tandem. Quite the site seeing a line-up of Civic's rolling down the road IMHO.

ETD and PowerStick installed... is this my car ?

2009-07-25T12:14:00.004-04:00

Just installed the Ingalls Engine Torque Dampner and PowerStick. I thought they were kidding about the shifts like butter comment. Shifting is more precise and smoother now. I guess because of there being less engine movement transitioning through the transmission.

No more wheel hop it appears. Acceleration is much better, again I am thinking this is due to less lateral movement of the engine. The race header and exhaust setup sounds different too. With everything tighten down now, the vocals are more solid and deep toned. It doesn't sound like any 4 cylinder that I am used to hearing. Very aggressive.

I hear differing views on whether you need both or whether one negates the need for the other. I also hear individuals investing 500 in Boomba engine mounts. Whether there is an appreciable difference between Boomba or the combo, I may never know. The Boomba milled aluminum looks very nice that is for sure, but for the money these might just do the job for what I need.

I need to do some fine tuning on the PowerStick as it needs to be tightened up just a bit I think. The ETD is set right at about 12mm. The tightest is 10, but it came set at 15. The 15mm setting had considerably more vibration and I could still feel my header knock the underside during launch. For those that don't know, the Vibrant race header for the 06+ Civic Si Sedans (and maybe coupe too) provide for a very tight fit. Always joy for the guys at Valvoline. Honda Burns Rule ! Yes I have my branding from when I did my time there too.

End story.. is it worth.... oh yes baby... its worth it !

Just ordered an Ingalls "Stiffy" combo pack...

2009-07-15T23:01:00.001-04:00

Just ordered an Ingalls "Stiffy" combo pack from CorsportUSA. This should eliminate the excessive engine rocking that I am getting on my wide-open-throttle runs down the strip. It should also cut out the knocking that I am experiencing where the header bounces up against the bottom-side of the car... side-effect of the engine twisting. Once I get it installed, I will take some photos and post them online.

Technical benefits of the "Stiffy" addons -

Greatly improved off-the-line acceleration

Reduced wheel hop

Improved vehicle stability

Reduced shock loads on driveline components

Smoother shifting

Reduced wear on exhaust system joints

Less vibration transmission to the driver compared to polyurethane motor mounts.

Less shock load, compared to torque straps and chains.

Drifting – helps reduce shock loads when wheels gain traction.

Reduces motor movement – decreases the chance of motor parts rubbing against the hood and frame.

Horsepower Design Equation Formula Calculator - Engine Horsepower Trap Speed Method

2009-07-08T07:04:00.002-04:00

Horsepower Design Equation Formula Calculator - Engine Horsepower Trap Speed Method

Shared via AddThis

Just a reminder for me...

2009-07-08T06:50:00.002-04:00

The engine is nothing more than a glorified air pump. Get more air in and out and you get more power. Every 11 degrees you drop the incoming air temperature, you get a 1 % Hp gain. So the goal is more air, the colder the better.

My recent icebox mod with the inlet down at the bumper (where I removed the resonator earlier) needs an enhancement. Right now the inlet is only about 2 inches in diameter and sets back in the bump off to the driver side a bit. I found an airbox on the side of the highway. Looks to be part of some truck that had an accident. It has a wonderful oval shape to it. My thought is that it will make for a nice scoop to fabricate onto the bumper and then build a funnel that connects to the existing 2" inlet.... essentially creating a ram scoop.

In theory, this may in fact push me over the 200 whp that I am looking for. Wish I had a way to determine my whp at the track under speed.

Night at the track

2009-06-25T07:22:00.007-04:00

Well finally was able to hit the track. Took off last night around 5:30pm and headed for the Ohio Valley Raceway for test and tune night. I got there around 6:30 or there abouts. Was able to get 8 runs in, so I was pretty happy about that.

Everyone was pretty cool and offered a lot of helpful pointers. My R/T is something horrible right now... definitely need to shape that up. Gotta learn how to pre-load the launch... save my transmission and axle some stress. Clutch is a whole lot cheaper to buy. I don't want to run the track again until I get that figured out. Posted my slip here and at Drag Times. Drag Times should show up within 12 hours it said.

My first run was on my own at about 7:20pm. Try to hold your laughter... proof my reaction time is awful right now...

Reaction time := .6831
60ft := 2.7388
330ft := 7.1070
ET @ 594 FT := 9.9438
1/8 ET := 10.5648
1/8 MPH := 72.47

My best ET time of the night was my second to last run...

Reaction time := .8631

60ft := 2.3710

330ft := 6.5189

ET @ 594 FT := 9.3138

1/8 ET := 9.9257

1/8 MPH := 73.54

My best R/T was .505 ... though overall ET and speed was lower. Like I said... between preloading and getting my R/T down... I should be able to get some lower 9s with my current setup. One thing I need to get is engine dampner. Had a good share of wheel hop and engine twisting on the mounts when I launched.

Here are some pointers I found this morning on a civicforums.com ... maybe I will try some of these out next time...

If you dont have slicks or radials don't burn out. Avoid the water patch.
Set psi in tires to around 19.
Launch around 6k.
Powershift. Never release the gas. This enables your VTEC to stay engaged instead of dropping below VTEC and having to pull back into it from 3-3.5k or so. This takes some toll on your clutch but not much.
When you see the 2nd yellow light on the tree drop, ease off your clutch and soon as the 3rd one drops, drop the clutch and mash.

I think I was pretty much pumped up on adrenaline last night... it was a lot fun. I can see why some get hooked for good.

Dyno Results

2009-06-17T21:40:00.000-04:00

Here are the dyno readings from the header, cat, and tbs installs.

The readings show last years run at stock with 166 at the wheel. Only mod since then is the Pulstar plugs (if I am lucky it gave me an extra 1 or 2 is my guess) and the Icebox modification. For those didn't know, I removed the intake resonator up front and cracked it open and refabricated it into an icebox intake setup with the intake at the bumper now. I posted a link earlier on the whole process. So I wanted a baseline to start with before we added some more mods.

To verify what the icebox did for me you can see its a good jump from 166 to 181 at the wheel. So it must really work. Mind you thats untuned (I suspect a FlashPro or AccessPort could further enhance that number) and the fan blowing in at the bump can only do so much to mimic highway speeds. I personally believe, though no proof, that I am getting better than 181. What I would like to do is fabricate a better scoop to draw in more air instead of the small 2 1/2 inch hole tucked inside the bumper.

Also, you will notice that the Icebox mod does not seem to do much before the VTEC, however once that kicks in, it starts to see strong improvement.

After adding the Vibrant RH, Vibrant Cat, and P2R TBS setup and P2R manifold gasket mods... I think I have made a pretty substantial improvement. Was hoping to break 200 though... still think on the highway I am probably pushing that 200 at the wheel... just can't confirm it. Grrr...

Drive home after the install...

2009-06-17T00:21:00.000-04:00

Well everything is installed now. Was able to get to the shop to see the last dyno run. Amazing difference in attitude for the exhaust sound. I will be scanning the Dyno readings and posting them here, but one thing is clear... it made a sizable jump in WHP and Torque.

The drive home was something else though... it rained something horrible all the way home. No opportunity for testing it out. Clearly was not safe. Guess I will need to wait for a dry day. Hopefully something this week.

Day in the shop...

2009-06-16T11:36:00.000-04:00

Dropped off my car yesterday at AutoLab. Getting the race header and exhaust installed, as well as the TB spacer and manifold gasket. Also getting a bunch of dyno's ran to check the before, after, and effects of a battery disconnect.

If I can get some sun soon, I will be able to take it out for some pics and post them online.

Mugen front lip finally arrived ...

2009-06-06T12:53:00.000-04:00

Mugen front lip arrived on Friday. It was in great shape for the money. Only thing I had to do was purchase a mounting kit. After finding out that it was 50 bucks for 4 screws and 4 clips, that I knew I could buy for less than 10 bucks, I opted for the latter. Everything is tight and secure now and installed. So much better I think...

Our other baby...

2009-05-30T14:22:00.003-04:00

This is my wife's car, 2009 Acura TSX. She finally was able to get her new rims, so I figured I would take this opportunity, in combination with a sunny day, and take some pics. She is sitting pretty now on a set of Falken 452's and 18" Momo WRS chrome rims.

Megan suspension pieces finally added...

2009-05-29T23:19:00.001-04:00

Finally got my Megan tie bar and H-brace installed. So far I haven't been able to get the full feel of the addons, but I know the bumps are felt a bit more . I don't think that any of that suspension pieces on their own would have improved things very much... however together it probably tightens things up pretty well. My guess is that the H-brace gives the most bang for the buck though.

On another note, I have my lucky sights on a Mugen front lip. Someone is parting their setup out. They already sold their side skirts, but I don't think I really want those. I thought about the Mugen rear wing, but still not 100% sure about whether I want that or not. Have to see what things look like with lip added.

This weeks work...

2009-05-28T21:34:00.000-04:00

Like I mentioned eariler, I finally got around to installing the mesh grille work on the lower bumper opening. If you saw it from the inside, you might think it was a rather crude install, however from outside... I am happy with the results.

Racing battery : Voltphreaks battery

2009-05-28T06:13:00.002-04:00

Found an interesting high-end car battery ( Voltphreaks ). If you can get past the price, it has some nice features like :

* 1/5 or less the weight of a normal battery
* Safety auto-off when battery drains to reserve (switchable feature on/off)
* Overcharge protection
* Extended life, around 2000 recharges
* Lithium Phosphate based instead of lead acid

Oh that price... roughly $900.00

I thought putting in the tail-lights was painful...

2009-05-17T22:16:00.004-04:00

Since I was putting the time in on tail-lights, figure I would do some more work since I was out there anyways...

For starters, I started prepping the grille insert that I am putting together for the front bumper. First I etched and stripped the aluminum grille using Muriatic Acid. That stuff stinks, but it sure works thats for certain. After rinsing the acid off, I allowed it to dry. Throughout the day, I painted it with flat black hi-temp paint. Several coats actually, which was finally followed up with a 2 coats of matte finish clearcoat. Its all dry now and put away for future use.

So what was the real pain ?? Sparkplugs. Had to remove the plastic cowl and then also a metal guard. This didn't end up being a 20 minute job like it was on my older cars that I had in the past. So what did I end up replacing the NGK iridiums with ? The controversial Pulstar sparkplugs. Snake Oil ? Good question... but I was willing to take a chance.

After looking at review from Import Tuner, I figured it was worth the 100 bucks if it held true. After installing, I disconnect the battery and then reconnected after the ECU cleared. The experience was felt almost immeadiately when I took it out on the highway. Granted no dyno, so its not excactly science... but the acceleration was clearly improved. Shifting through the gears was smoother too. Maybe its just in my mind... but I don't think so.

So, the next trick is to see how fuel economy is... should be interesting. I will keep you posted, but for all you Civic 8th gen owners... it couldn't hurt and really whats a 100 bucks...

Okay, okay... so even if its 1-2 gain on hp... every bit helps I think. 1-2 here or there can eventually get you to an extra 10-15 across the board. All I know is that it seems like things have been improved. The fuel economy should be a clear sign though. I track my fuel economy regularly. So we shall see...

New tail-lamps installed

2009-05-17T22:06:00.001-04:00

Installed my tail-lights this weekend. Took near half the day. Suppose I could have gotten done faster, but I prefer to take my time. I had to remove the whole bumper just to remove them. A real PITA for sure.Took a few pics, but I think this one came out the best I think with respect to the new tail-lights.

Guess COBB motivated Hondata a bit...

2009-05-09T11:04:00.003-04:00

Hondata FlashPro

The FlashPro allows full user tuning and datalogging of late model performance Civics. It includes Windows based software called FlashProManager.

The FlashPro connects from your laptop's USB port to your vehicles diagnostic port to provide 90 second programming with a variety of calibrations with extensive real time and stored datalogging capabilities.

http://www.hondata.com/flashpro.html

Official 8th Civic Discussion Thread

Honda Support Forum

Price and availability

$795 in June 2009

Features

FlashPro features

Programmable ECU interface.
Connects via OBDII diagnostic port.
USB 2.0 connection
Works with Laptop or Desktop
No ECU modification necessary.
90 second ECU programming time.
20 hours on board datalogging memory.
FlashProManager Windows software.
Check and clear diagnostic codes.
Custom laptop gauges.
Theft mitigation

2006+ Civic Si / Civic Type R tuning features

Choice of AFM or MAP based tuning.
Support for MAP based forced induction.
Support for larger injectors.
Ignition, fuel, cam angle table editing.
VTEC window.
Rev, launch and speed limiters.
Race vehicle sensor disabling.
Plus other compensation and trim tables.
Map tracing

Cowl Induction article

2009-05-06T21:10:00.001-04:00

Found a link on 8th Civic shows some pics and discussion about a very nice custom cowl induction setup. Has a very commercial look to it and does not degrade from the engine bay look IMHO. Might have to make this a summer project after all.

http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/bolt-ons-all-motor/89786-my-cowl-induction-version.html

So how is my DIY CAI working out ?

2009-05-04T23:58:00.000-04:00

Well its only been a few days (like last Saturday) since I hacked up my resonator and intake setup. So whats it like so far ? For starters the vtec whine that occurred around 6000 rpm appears to be gone. Obviously something created by the resonator when it was still there. Luckily the pickup and power didn't go away. What I did notice is that (maybe its in my head) the power band and acceleration is smoother and more responsive. This seems to align with comments made by other individuals who have done the same thing.

Like I said, the one thing I would like to do is purchase a K&N cone filter and mount it down in the lower bumper. Then smooth out the inside of the airbox to improve air flow. Hoping to do that sometime this month. Long term I would really like to do is modify the whole air intake to that of a cowl induction . I don't see me getting rid of the intake down in the bumper but instead having both the cowl and bumper intakes areas. Reason being is that both the cowl and the bumper area are optimal places for airflow. The real question is what all this additional air will do to the fuel economy. Some readings have indicated improved fuel economy after a few tanks of gas which permits the system to calibrate to the new configuration changes. My current mpg is generally around 25-27 mpg give or take.

I will post back how things go.

Just installed my new CF grille

2009-05-04T21:18:00.002-04:00

Finally received my new carbon fiber grille. Took about 2 hours to install I guess. I had to drill the necessary holes in it and also a little Dremel work to clear out some of the plastic work. Not sure what I do without the Dremel. Amazing little tool I have to say.

Here is a shot I took tonite. I have some aluminum grille material I purchased last year and my plan is to prime and paint it black as well then use that for the lower bumper opening. Might do that when I install a K&N cone filter at the bottom and remove the drop-in filter since I reworked the resonator piping.

Side by Side comparison...

2009-05-03T20:15:00.001-04:00

Someone close to me said it was hard for them to see the difference between new projector headlamps and the stock headlamps. Here is a side by side comparison. Personally I am very happy with the new look.

CF Grill on order

2009-05-03T01:44:00.000-04:00

Update... not as soon as thought..however good news is that its on its way now, but shipping will take about 2 weeks from overseas.

Purchased a new CF Grille from iOffer. Never really liked the stock grille. Should be here by the end of the week.

Megan Racing Suspension

2009-05-03T00:47:00.003-04:00

As mentioned earlier, I ended up ordering the Megan racing suspension products. Can't wait till they get here so I get them installed. Should be a huge improvement. I purchased them from CorSport

Night shot of new projectors

2009-05-03T00:17:00.004-04:00

Not a real clear image, but you can see the CFL Angel eyes... I will take some more during the day light hours to match some of the older shots I have so that I can see some side-by-side comparisons...

Derby day for some, but for me.. Mod Day !

2009-05-02T23:02:00.010-04:00

Jacked up the car today and swapped out the headlamps with my new projector setup. Since I had the bumper off, decided to remove the resonator and reroute the system. For more info on the work done and the pros and cons of why to do it go to 8thcivic.com. Also cut out my lower grille, gotta love a good Dremel tool... hated that plastic grille looking thing. Ugly. This will make way for future mods like RedShift Supercharger and intercooler ;o).

Here is the new look

Monies paid for Mugen lip refunded...

2009-05-02T23:02:00.009-04:00

My charges were reversed so I can rethink how to spend that money differently. Giving some thought to handling the lip in an alternate way... since its unlikely I will stumble into a Mugen front lip. I have seen examples of the HFP lip with ARC Winglets which looks pretty good to me.

Guess we will see.

So now what....

2009-04-30T20:39:00.000-04:00

Tried to order the Mugen front lip. Big no go. I hear differing stories about what can and cannot be purchased from the Mugen. One posting says I should be able to get the lip from the dealer, another says now. Another says I need 'connections'. Yeah I need that! Anyways, tried order online and thought I had it in the bag till they told me that it was oversized and could not be shipped and I had to pick it up... in New Jersey. Thats a bit of a haul from Kentucky to say the least.

Supposed to be refunding my money... but nothing has happened yet. Need to call them tomorrow and see whats up.

Surprise waiting on doorstep today... yea!

2009-04-28T19:19:00.003-04:00

Headlamps arrived. They are looking pretty sharp if I do say myself. Now for a few more parts to come in, and then I can plan a 'mod-my-civic' weekend. The day was partially tainted with bad news however. Majestic Honda canceled my Mugen front lip order because FedEx does not ship oversized items. Crazy thing is that Majestic Honda doesn't offer any other options online. I left a message with them to call me back. I would prefer to not cancel and just change the shipping method. No call today, maybe tomorrow.

Bad news .. good news..

2009-04-27T00:11:00.003-04:00

Well the news is not good. I was not accepted onto the Beta program with Cobb Tuning. Mixed feelings...was disappointed obviously, but also very excited about the future now that they have dipped their toe into the pool.

Lower brace bars being looked at for next purchase...

2009-04-26T11:37:00.007-04:00

Also looking to buy some lower suspension items that should not only compliment the look but also do well for handling. Debating about getting a 'power stick', but I have heard issues about space problems when replacing the pully in that area ... and I do want to change those out.

In order.. Megan Racing

Rear lower tie bar
Lower H-Brace
Front lower tie bar

Thinking about buying the Mugen lip...

2009-04-26T11:14:00.002-04:00

Debating about buying the Mugen lip or a CF clone. I think the CF clone would be too much CF on the front of the car. I will have to do some photoshop I guess...

Headlamps on Order

2009-04-26T10:55:00.002-04:00

Just ordered new headlamps from eBay. They won't be true HIDs, but I plan on upgrading the bulbs later. Was just reading on how the bulbs are changed on the Si. Through the fender well...grrrr.

S-Five Momo 17's

2009-04-23T15:06:00.006-04:00

You don't see it here, but about 3 weeks after I got my Momos, an automatic carwash carved a chunk out of my lettering on the lip. I have since then fixed it more or less. I can't blame the person who was in the car when it happened. They were just that much off center ... just enough for the wheel brush guides to hook onto the letter "R". :o(

Project Blue Begins Now...

2009-04-23T09:50:00.003-04:00

Purchased my 2007 Civic Si used, last year around March/April 2008. No real performance mods to the vehicle aside from the drop in K&N filter. So I would call it stock. Some major changes to come however. Was about ready to add my Vibrant RH w/HFC and catback to it, but just caught a posting that COBB Tuning has put up a beta program for those that want to run a compatible version of AccessPort with their Si. Needless to say very interested seeing as Hondata has dragged their feet through the mud on this one.

All I am doing now is waiting on confirmation at this point.